Today we rounded Lindesnes. This, as the southernmost point of Norway, has a fearsome reputation. It is very exposed to the wind and with two major currents meeting there it could be said to be a very confused place – literally in the case of the seas. It is known as the ‘Cape of Torment’ by the locals, though presumably it is the local fishermen who have termed it that. As the southernmost cape of Norway it has major navigational significance, so it isn’t surprising that it was the site of Norway’s first lighthouse station. The very first light was composed of 30 tallow candles at the top of a three-storey tower and was put in place in 1656. It is safe to say that it wasn’t wholly successful. The combination of wind and tallow candles was probably never going to be, but at least they tried. The locals though complained and so it only lasted a few months before they gave up. The next, more successful attempt, started in 1725 and there has been a lighthouse there constantly since – a useful navigational aid to entering the Skaggerak.
Our rounding was probably easier than many, but then, given its reputation, we had looked carefully ahead at the forecast to avoid anything too strong. So we left the harbour (on the eastern side of the peninsula) and headed out to round it. We took a long tack out until we could then make it round past Lindesnes and the next headland Lista. We were making it nicely until the wind started to die, so eventually, after about four hours sailing, we had to motorsail with just the main. We then rounded Lista and headed towards the island of Hidra.
We had been told, by friends and pilot books, that there was a narrow entrance through the south of Hidra into the bay where Kirkehamn is located. Knowing there is a gap doesn’t make it any less disconcerting when you are aiming at a wall of rocks. At the last minute the gap revealed itself, but there’s gaps and small gaps and then even smaller gaps. This one distinctly fell into the latter category and aiming at it induced a sense of concern verging on panic. Mental calculations of the approximate width of the gap and width of the boat flashed rapidly through my brain but eventually a state of sangfroid and inevitability took over as we made sure to stay in the middle. With around a metre either side, it was tight, but we made it!
Once in, it was instantly calm and turned round the corner to moor on the jetty by Aloucia outside the Isbua restaurant. It’s a beautiful and very sheltered spot with the church on a peninsula nearby adding to the sense of serenity.
The island of Hidra was historically spelled Hitterø and the old Norse version of the name was Hitr (meaning ‘split’ or ‘cleft’) probably referring to the fact that the island is split in two by the Rasvåg fjord. The island has around 500 permanent residents and is composed almost completely of granite with some moraine deposits. It is spectacular and perhaps the nicest place we have visited so far in scenic terms. It has along history and the earliest archaeological finds on the island date back to 7600BCE. One intriguing find from 1858 was a runestone from around 400CE. This was found at Reistad, with the text “I, WakraR, have learned writing“. Though there are other interpretations, this one seems to fit with the excitement of the carver at wanting to leave his mark! Jewellery from the late Iron Age has also been found, so there is plenty of evidence of habitation over a long period. In most cases residents probably made their living from the sea and in the sailing ship era there were yards on Hidra for maintaining the ships.
